What Is A Hand Saw? Types; Uses; & Choosing the Right One

A hand saw is a tool used for cutting wood and other materials using muscle power to move a stiff blade back and forth. This article will explore the various types of hand saws, their uses, how to choose the right one, hand saw techniques, and hand saw maintenance.

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Grasping the Basics of Hand Saws

Hand saws are fundamental tools found in workshops and homes. They offer a portable and quiet alternative to power saws, allowing for precise cuts in various materials. They are versatile and valuable for a range of projects, from rough carpentry to fine woodworking.

Parts of a Hand Saw

Before diving into types, let’s identify the key parts of a hand saw:

• Blade: The metal part with teeth that does the cutting.
• Teeth: The sharp, pointed edges on the blade that remove material.
• Handle: The part you hold to control the saw.
• Back (of a Backsaw): A metal reinforcement along the top edge of the blade for stability.
• Rake Angle: The angle of the tooth’s cutting face relative to a line perpendicular to the blade. Affects cutting aggressiveness.
• Set: The amount the teeth are bent to the side, alternating from left to right. Creates a wider kerf (cut) than the blade’s thickness to prevent binding.
• Kerf: The width of the cut made by the saw.
• Heel: The end of the blade closest to the handle.
• Toe: The opposite end of the blade from the heel.

Different Types of Hand Saws

The world of hand saws is diverse, with each type designed for specific tasks. Here’s a breakdown of common types of hand saws:

Crosscut Saw

• What it is: A saw designed to cut across the grain of wood.
• Uses: Cutting lumber to length, making clean cuts across boards.
• Teeth: Teeth are beveled to slice wood fibers like knives.
• Identifying features: Teeth are angled alternately.

Rip Saw

• What it is: A saw designed to cut with the grain of wood.
• Uses: Cutting boards lengthwise.
• Teeth: Teeth are chisel-like to scoop out wood fibers.
• Identifying features: Teeth are filed straight across.

Panel Saw

• What it is: A general-purpose saw that can function as either a crosscut or rip saw, though it typically excels at neither.
• Uses: General cutting of wood, useful when a dedicated crosscut or rip saw isn’t available.
• Teeth: Can have a crosscut or rip tooth pattern, or a hybrid.
• Identifying features: Varies depending on the intended use.

Backsaw

• What it is: A saw with a reinforced back, providing rigidity for fine, accurate cuts.
• Uses: Making precise cuts in joinery, such as dovetails and tenons.
• Teeth: Fine teeth for smooth cuts.
• Identifying features: Stiff metal spine along the back of the blade.

Types of Backsaws

• Dovetail Saw: A type of backsaw with fine teeth and a thin blade for cutting dovetails.
• Tenon Saw: A larger backsaw used for cutting tenons.
• Carcass Saw: A backsaw used for general woodworking.

Coping Saw

• What it is: A saw with a thin, replaceable blade held in a frame, used for cutting curves and intricate shapes.
• Uses: Cutting curves in wood, scrollwork.
• Teeth: Small and fine, allowing for intricate cuts.
• Identifying features: U-shaped frame holding a thin blade.

Keyhole Saw (or Compass Saw)

• What it is: A saw with a long, tapered blade used for cutting holes in walls and floors.
• Uses: Cutting starting holes for larger cuts, cutting drywall.
• Teeth: Aggressive teeth for quick cutting.
• Identifying features: Tapered blade.

Veneer Saw

• What it is: A specialized saw with two rows of teeth facing opposite directions.
• Uses: Cutting veneer without splintering.
• Teeth: Very fine and sharp.
• Identifying features: Double-sided blade.

Jab Saw (Drywall Saw)

• What it is: A saw with a pointed blade used for cutting drywall.
• Uses: Cutting holes in drywall for outlets and switches.
• Teeth: Coarse teeth for quick cutting.
• Identifying features: Pointed blade.

Japanese Saw (Nokogiri)

• What it is: A saw that cuts on the pull stroke, allowing for a thinner blade and cleaner cuts.
• Uses: Woodworking, joinery.
• Teeth: Hardened teeth for long-lasting sharpness.
• Identifying features: Thin, flexible blade.

Types of Japanese Saws

• Ryoba: Double-edged saw with both rip and crosscut teeth.
• Dozuki: Backsaw for fine joinery.
• Kataba: Single-edged saw without a back, for deeper cuts.

Fathoming Tooth Count and Pitch

Two important terms when choosing a saw are “teeth per inch” (TPI) and “pitch”.

• Teeth Per Inch (TPI): The number of teeth along one inch of the blade. Higher TPI means finer cut, smoother finish, and slower cutting speed. Lower TPI means faster cutting speed but a rougher finish.

• Pitch: The distance between the points of two adjacent teeth. It’s the inverse of TPI (Pitch = 1/TPI).

Feature	High TPI	Low TPI
Cut quality	Finer, smoother	Rougher
Cutting speed	Slower	Faster
Material thickness	Thinner materials	Thicker materials
Saw type Example	Dovetail saw (15-20 TPI)	Rip saw (5-8 TPI)
Effort Required	More strokes, less force per stroke	Fewer strokes, more force per stroke
Risk of Binding	Lower due to finer kerf	Higher if not properly used
Common Applications	Fine woodworking, detail work	Rough carpentry, quick material removal

Uses of Hand Saws

Using a hand saw effectively requires the right tool for the job. Here are some common uses for different types of hand saws:

• Crosscut Saw: Cutting boards to length for furniture, framing, or general construction.
• Rip Saw: Ripping wide boards into narrower pieces.
• Backsaw: Cutting dovetails, tenons, and other joinery for furniture making.
• Coping Saw: Cutting curves in decorative trim or creating intricate shapes in wood.
• Keyhole Saw: Cutting holes in drywall or wood for pipes or electrical wiring.
• Japanese Saw: Fine woodworking, joinery, and general cutting.
• Jab Saw (Drywall Saw): Cutting drywall for electrical boxes, light fixtures, or other openings.

Choosing the Right Hand Saw

Selecting the best hand saw depends on the project. Consider these factors:

• Type of Cut: Are you cutting with or across the grain?
• Material: Are you cutting wood, drywall, or another material?
• Thickness of Material: Thicker materials require saws with larger teeth and deeper gullets (the space between the teeth).
• Desired Finish: Finer cuts require saws with more teeth per inch.
• Frequency of Use: If you’ll be using the saw frequently, invest in a high-quality tool.
• Budget: Hand saws range in price from affordable to very expensive.

Table: Hand Saw Selection Guide

Task	Recommended Saw(s)	TPI Range	Key Considerations
Cutting across the grain of wood	Crosscut Saw, Panel Saw	8-12	Tooth pattern, set, handle comfort
Cutting with the grain of wood	Rip Saw, Panel Saw	5-8	Tooth pattern, rake angle, handle design
Fine joinery (dovetails, tenons)	Backsaw (Dovetail Saw, Tenon Saw)	15-20	Blade thickness, back stiffness, tooth sharpness
Cutting curves	Coping Saw	15-20+	Blade type (for wood, metal, etc.), frame design
Cutting holes in drywall	Keyhole Saw (or Compass Saw), Jab Saw	7-10	Blade point sharpness, handle grip, blade length
Cutting veneer	Veneer Saw	20+	Blade thinness, tooth sharpness, double-sided teeth
General-purpose cutting	Panel Saw	8-10	Versatility, comfortable handle, blade length
Flush cutting dowels or protruding edges	Flush Cut Saw	15-22+	Blade flexibility, offset handle, thin kerf
Pruning branches	Pruning Saw	5-7	Blade curvature, aggressive tooth design, folding option
Cutting metal	Hacksaw (with appropriate metal cutting blade)	18-32+	TPI depends on metal thickness, adjustable frame

Cutting with a Hand Saw: Essential Techniques

Mastering hand saw techniques leads to cleaner, more efficient cuts.

1. Stance: Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart, with the material to your side.
2. Grip: Hold the handle firmly but not too tightly.
3. Starting the Cut: Use your thumb as a guide to start the cut. Pull the saw back gently to create a kerf (groove).
4. Cutting Stroke: Use long, smooth strokes, applying pressure on the push stroke (or the pull stroke for Japanese saws). Let the saw do the work. Avoid forcing the saw.
5. Guiding the Saw: Keep your eye on the cutting line and guide the saw accordingly.
6. Finishing the Cut: Ease up on the pressure as you approach the end of the cut to prevent splintering.

Tips for Accurate Cuts

• Use a marking gauge to create a precise cutting line.
• Use a combination square to ensure the cut is square to the face of the board.
• Practice on scrap wood to develop your technique.
• Keep your saw sharp.
• Apply wax or lubricant to the blade to reduce friction.
• Use clamps or a vise to secure the workpiece.
• Maintain a consistent sawing angle for a straight cut.

Hand Saw vs Power Saw

Hand saw vs power saw: choosing the right tool:

Feature	Hand Saw	Power Saw
Power Source	Manual (muscle power)	Electric or battery
Noise Level	Quiet	Noisy
Portability	Highly portable	Limited by power source
Precision	High, with practice	High, with proper setup
Cutting Speed	Slower	Faster
Material	Wood, some plastics	Wood, metal, concrete, etc.
Cost	Generally lower	Generally higher
Maintenance	Sharpening, cleaning	More complex; blade changes, motor care
Safety	Lower risk of severe injury if used correctly	Higher risk of severe injury
Best Use Cases	Fine woodworking, small projects, remote locations	Large projects, construction, fast cutting

Hand Saw Blade: Maintenance and Sharpening

A sharp hand saw blade is essential for efficient and accurate cutting. Hand saw maintenance is relatively simple.

Cleaning

• Remove any sawdust or debris from the blade after each use.
• Use a wire brush to remove rust.
• Apply a light coat of oil to prevent rust.

Sharpening

Sharpening hand saws is a skill that requires practice and specialized tools. Here’s a general overview:

1. Jointing: Filing the teeth to a uniform height.
2. Shaping: Filing the teeth to the correct shape.
3. Setting: Bending the teeth to create the kerf.
4. Sharpening: Final sharpening of the teeth.

When to Sharpen:

• The saw requires more force to cut.
• The saw “wanders” off the cutting line.
• The saw leaves a rough or splintered cut.

Replacing a Blade

Some hand saws, such as coping saws and hacksaws, have replaceable blades. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to replace the blade. Ensure the teeth are facing the correct direction.

Common Problems and Solutions when Using Hand Saws

Problem	Possible Cause	Solution
Saw binds in cut	Wood pinching, dull blade, insufficient set	Wedge the kerf open, sharpen the blade, check/adjust set
Cut is not straight	Incorrect technique, dull blade, warped blade	Improve technique, sharpen/replace blade, check blade straightness
Splintering	Dull blade, cutting against the grain	Sharpen the blade, use a scoring cut, tape the cut line
Saw chatters	Loose grip, incorrect angle, too much pressure	Firm grip, correct angle, let the saw do the work
Difficult starting	Incorrect angle, dull teeth, blade not aligned	Start at low angle, sharpen teeth, realign blade
Excessive effort	Dull blade, incorrect saw for the job	Sharpen/replace blade, use the correct type of saw
Handle is loose	Screws or bolts need tightening	Tighten screws or bolts
Blade rusts	Moisture exposure, lack of oiling	Clean rust, apply protective oil

FAQ: All About Hand Saws

• What is the best hand saw for cutting plywood? A fine-toothed crosscut saw or a Japanese saw is ideal for minimizing splintering.
• Can I use a hand saw to cut metal? No, use a hacksaw designed for cutting metal.
• Who makes the best hand saws? Brands like Lie-Nielsen, Veritas, and Adria offer high-quality hand saws. Vintage saws from Disston and Simonds are also highly regarded.
• How do I store a hand saw? Hang it on a wall or store it in a toolbox to protect the blade.
• How do I tell if my hand saw is sharp? A sharp saw will cut smoothly and easily without requiring excessive force. If the saw requires significant effort or leaves a rough cut, it likely needs sharpening.
• What’s the difference between a crosscut and a rip saw? A crosscut saw cuts across the wood grain, while a rip saw cuts with the wood grain. The teeth are designed differently to optimize each cutting action.
• Can I resharpen my hand saw myself? Yes, but it requires special tools (files and a saw set) and some practice to do it correctly.
• What is the ‘set’ of a saw? The set refers to the amount the teeth are bent to the side, alternating from left to right. This creates a kerf (cut) wider than the blade, preventing binding.
• What is a progressive pitch saw? A saw where the tooth pitch (distance between teeth) varies along the length of the blade. Often finer near the handle for starting cuts, and coarser towards the toe for faster cutting.
• What is fleam? Fleam refers to the angle at which the teeth are filed on a crosscut saw, influencing their slicing action.
• Are hand saws still relevant in the age of power tools? Absolutely. They offer precision, quiet operation, and portability that power tools can’t match, making them valuable for fine woodworking and tasks where noise is a concern.