Can you cut plywood with a table saw? Yes, you can cut plywood with a table saw. However, achieving clean, splinter-free cuts requires proper technique, the right blade, and careful setup. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about cutting plywood on a table saw like a pro.
Image Source: i.ytimg.com
Choosing the Right Blade: The Key to Splinter-Free Plywood Cuts
The blade you use is arguably the most important factor in achieving clean, splinter-free cuts when working with plywood. A standard general-purpose blade will often result in tearout and splintering, especially on the delicate veneer layers. So, what is the best blade for plywood?
Plywood Blade Recommendations:
- High Tooth Count: Look for blades with a high tooth count (60-80 teeth for a 10-inch blade, or even more for a 12-inch blade). More teeth create a slicing action rather than a chipping action, which reduces tearout.
- Alternate Top Bevel (ATB) Grind: ATB blades have teeth that alternate bevels (left, right, left, right). This grind slices the wood fibers cleanly, minimizing splintering.
- Triple Chip Grind (TCG): While primarily designed for non-ferrous metals and plastics, TCG blades can also produce clean cuts in plywood, especially when cutting thicker sheets.
- Thin Kerf Blades: Thin kerf blades remove less material, requiring less power from your saw and resulting in smoother cuts. They are particularly helpful when working with underpowered saws or expensive hardwood plywood.
Table: Blade Types for Plywood
Blade Type | Tooth Count | Grind | Pros | Cons | Best For |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
ATB | 60-80+ | ATB | Clean cuts, minimal splintering | May require a scoring blade for the absolute best results | General plywood cutting |
TCG | 40-60+ | TCG | Good for thick plywood, durable | Can be more prone to chipping on thin veneers | Thick plywood, melamine |
Thin Kerf ATB | 60-80+ | ATB | Requires less power, smoother cuts | May be less durable than standard kerf blades | Underpowered saws, expensive hardwood plywood |
Specialty Plywood Blade | 80+ | Varies | Very clean cuts, designed specifically for plywood | More expensive | Precise, high-end plywood projects |
Setting Up Your Table Saw: Ensuring Accuracy and Safety
A proper table saw fence setup for plywood is crucial for accurate and safe cuts. Before you even turn on the saw, take the time to adjust your fence and ensure your workpiece is properly supported.
Table Saw Fence Alignment:
- Parallel to the Blade: The fence must be perfectly parallel to the blade. Even a slight misalignment can cause the wood to bind and kickback, which is dangerous. Use a reliable method to check and adjust fence alignment. A dial indicator is most precise.
- Secure Locking: Make sure the fence locks securely in place and doesn’t move during the cut. A loose fence will lead to inaccurate cuts.
Workpiece Support:
- Outfeed Support: When cutting large plywood sheets table saw, outfeed support is essential. Use an outfeed table, roller stand, or even a friend to support the plywood as it exits the blade. This prevents the plywood from sagging and binding.
- Infeed Support: Infeed support is also helpful, especially for long pieces. This helps keep the plywood flat against the table as you feed it into the blade.
- Featherboards: Featherboards can be used to hold the plywood firmly against the fence, further reducing the risk of kickback and improving cut quality.
Setting Blade Height:
- Slightly Above the Plywood: The blade should be set so that the teeth extend slightly above the top surface of the plywood. Exposing too much blade increases the risk of tearout and kickback. A good rule of thumb is to set the blade height so that the top of the gullets (the spaces between the teeth) are just visible above the plywood.
Plywood Cutting Techniques: Achieving Clean and Accurate Results
Mastering specific plywood cutting techniques can significantly improve the quality of your cuts and minimize tearout.
Table Saw Plywood Ripping:
Ripping refers to cutting plywood along the grain (lengthwise).
- Feed Rate: Maintain a consistent feed rate. Feeding too quickly can cause the blade to bog down and produce a rough cut. Feeding too slowly can cause burning. Experiment to find the optimal feed rate for your saw and blade.
- Push Sticks and Push Blocks: Always use push sticks and push blocks to keep your hands away from the blade, especially when ripping narrow pieces.
- Check for Internal Stress: Plywood sometimes has internal stress that can cause it to pinch the blade during ripping, leading to kickback. If you suspect internal stress, make a series of shallow relief cuts before making the final cut.
Crosscutting Plywood on Table Saw:
Crosscutting involves cutting plywood across the grain (widthwise).
- Miter Gauge: Use a miter gauge to guide the plywood across the blade. Ensure the miter gauge is adjusted properly and fits snugly in the miter slot.
- Miter Saw Sled: For greater accuracy and stability, consider building or purchasing a miter saw sled. A sled provides a larger, more stable platform for supporting the plywood.
- Backer Board: Attach a sacrificial backer board to the miter gauge or sled. This will provide support to the back of the plywood as it’s being cut, reducing tearout on the exit side.
Preventing Tearout: Strategies for Splinter-Free Plywood Cutting
Preventing tearout plywood is a major concern when working with this material. Here are several strategies:
Scoring Cut:
- Shallow First Pass: A scoring cut involves making a very shallow first pass (1/8″ deep or less) along the cut line. This scores the surface veneer, preventing it from splintering when the full cut is made. Raise the blade to the final height after the scoring cut.
Painter’s Tape:
- Applying Tape: Apply painter’s tape along both sides of the cut line before cutting. The tape helps to hold the veneer fibers together, reducing tearout. Make sure to use good quality painter’s tape that won’t leave a residue.
Zero Clearance Insert:
- Close Blade Support: A zero clearance insert fills the gap around the blade in the table saw’s throat plate. This provides maximum support to the plywood fibers as they are being cut, minimizing tearout. You can purchase pre-made zero clearance inserts or make your own.
Climb Cutting (Use With Extreme Caution):
- Cutting Against Feed Direction: Climb cutting involves feeding the plywood against the normal direction of blade rotation. This can produce extremely clean cuts, but it’s also very dangerous and should only be attempted by experienced woodworkers who fully that the blade will grab the workpiece and throw it violently.
- Only for Small Cuts: If you choose to use climb cutting, only do so for very small, controlled cuts. Never climb cut large pieces of plywood.
Safe Plywood Cutting Practices: Prioritizing Your Well-being
Safety should always be your top priority when working with a table saw. Here are some essential safe plywood cutting practices:
- Wear Safety Glasses: Always wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from flying debris.
- Use Hearing Protection: Table saws are loud. Wear hearing protection to prevent hearing damage.
- Dust Collection: Plywood dust can be harmful to your lungs. Use a dust collection system to remove dust from the air.
- Avoid Loose Clothing and Jewelry: Loose clothing and jewelry can get caught in the blade.
- Never Reach Over the Blade: If you need to adjust the plywood, turn off the saw and wait for the blade to stop spinning.
- Be Aware of Kickback: Kickback is a dangerous phenomenon that occurs when the blade grabs the plywood and throws it back towards the operator. Always be aware of the potential for kickback and take steps to prevent it.
- Stay Focused: Table saws require your full attention. Avoid distractions and never operate a table saw when you are tired or under the influence of drugs or alcohol.
- Know Your Equipment: Read and understand the owner’s manual for your table saw before using it.
Cutting Large Plywood Sheets on a Table Saw: Overcoming the Challenges
Cutting large plywood sheets on a table saw can be challenging due to their size and weight. Here are some tips for handling large sheets safely and efficiently:
- Get Help: If possible, get a helper to assist you with supporting the plywood.
- Use a Track Saw: A track saw is a portable saw that runs along a track, allowing you to make straight, accurate cuts on large sheets of plywood without having to lift them onto a table saw.
- Break Down Sheets: If you don’t have a track saw, consider breaking down the large sheets into smaller, more manageable pieces using a circular saw or jigsaw before cutting them on the table saw.
- Roller Stands: Use roller stands to support the plywood as you feed it through the saw.
- Assembly Table: Use a large, flat assembly table to support the plywood while you are making cuts.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What is the best type of plywood for furniture making?
The best type of plywood for furniture making is hardwood plywood, which has a core made from hardwood veneers and a face veneer made from a decorative hardwood species such as maple, birch, or oak.
Can I use a circular saw instead of a table saw for cutting plywood?
Yes, you can use a circular saw for cutting plywood. A circular saw, especially when used with a guide rail, can be a great alternative, particularly for breaking down large sheets.
Who is responsible if I get injured using a table saw?
You are responsible for following all safety precautions and operating the table saw in a safe manner.
What are the advantages of using a zero-clearance insert?
A zero-clearance insert provides maximum support to the plywood fibers as they are being cut, minimizing tearout and splintering, especially on the underside of the cut.
How often should I replace my table saw blade?
How often you should replace your table saw blade depends on how frequently you use it, the type of materials you cut, and the quality of the blade. A good-quality blade, used primarily for plywood and other softwoods, can last for several years with proper care. When you notice a decline in cut quality, increased splintering, or burning, it’s time to sharpen or replace the blade.

Hi, I’m Tom Scalisi, and welcome to The Saw Blog! I started this blog to share my hands-on experience and insights about woodworking tools—especially saws and saw blades. Over the years, I’ve had the chance to work with a wide range of tools, and I’m here to help both professionals and hobbyists make informed decisions when it comes to selecting and using their equipment. Whether you’re looking for in-depth reviews, tips, or just advice on how to get the best performance out of your tools, you’ll find it here. I’m excited to be part of your woodworking journey!